Beginning with my June 2008 post "It's Been Five Years," the following is the continuing story of my travels from the United States into Micronesia ~ Pohnpei, Guam and Saipan ~ and my life since June 2003.
Sunday, September 7, 2003 ~ Pohnpei
In the sakau market I sit with the men; Lynn sits with the women. My thoughts drift through the rythmic pulse of river rocks being pounded on a large flat stone the size and shape of a coffee table to mash the pepper plant root and release what will become sakau. I am invited over to sit with the men while they squeeze the pounded pepper plant roots mixed with water through a webbing made of the inner bark of the hibiscus tree, like a towel being twisted to squeeze out the water. Very interesting to observe close up. One would think it'd take some serious muscle, but these people are no bigger than me, and are no more muscular.
The liquid sakau is squeezed into a cup from a coconut shell that someone else held. The first cup goes to the N'marki, or Naniken, whoever is the highest official present. The second, I don't know. The third to a woman. The fourth, I'm not sure to who or why, but I received it at one point. There's something about the number "4" here, but I haven't inquired yet what it is.
The Sakau experience is interesting, and quietly enjoyable. Very mellow, a mild narcotic. People are quiet, and talking, sharing a common cup. It's a very communal experience. Everyone speaking in Pohnpein, of course, which is kind of nice, as I catch a word or phrase or two, but don't really care that I'm missing anything, and have no concern that they're talking about me (which they are, especially when teasing Lynn). I have a certain tolerance limit for Sakau, where I know I don't want any more, or I'll suffer intestinal consequences the next day. I've never actually been "drunk" on it, although I have felt its effects. Lynn commented tonight that I showed no effects of being drunk. As I've said, it's not something I'm drawn to; but I do it to be a participant in Lynn's clan.
The locals actually seem to get drunk pretty quickly, beginning to nod off after a few cups' worth. It doesn't affect me that way, and I'm in no competition with anyone, and that's not what it's about. I only do it to be polite and respectful.
Toward the time I was ready to leave, someone passed me a cup and I said "Soh, Menlau" (no, thank you). That impressed the guy sitting next to me, that I was speaking the language. Lynn and the secretaries at work think I'm learning it fast. Doesn't seem that way to me. But it is a simple language. And I still need to hear and repeat a word or phrase many times to retain it.
Many on the island think Lynn and I are married. Lynn does what she can to disabuse them; I divert the issue. It's the life here. Doing the typical American boyfriend-girlfriend thing, like shopping for groceries together, results in an automatic presumption that we're married. On the other hand, there are those who don't know us, who see us, who stare, and sometimes even glare, assuming that Lynn is a "winnit" (sp?), a prostitute, who goes to the docks. We encountered that many times today while out shopping. Lynn's angry about it, and rightly so; but I figure once we're seen out and about enough, and once people learn who I am, it'll stop.
No rains the last day or two. Rains bring the breeze. It's been hot, but I'm sweating less. It's been over two months and I'm still adapting.
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