Monday, September 29, 2008

Thursday, December 25, 2003 (continued) ~ Pohnpei


Beginning with my June 2008 post "It's Been Five Years," the following is the continuing story of my travels from the United States into Micronesia ~ Pohnpei, Guam and Saipan ~ and my life since June 2003.



Thursday, December 25, 2003 (continued) ~ Pohnpei

Christmas in Pohnpei. Not like what you’d expect in the States. The Christmas decorations have been up in some places all year round; just never taken down, I suppose. No expectations on the part of children of waking up to a visit from Santa Claus. I ask Lynn when the kids will get their presents, and she just says “Later. After.”

By mid-morning we head down to her village in Sokehs, where preparations are underway under the supervision of various aunties, pretty much the same as any other celebration I’ve witnessed: people bringing caseloads of chicken and pork ribs for the barbecue; numerous packages of hot dogs; large quantities of rice people made at home and bring to the village; breadfruit; taro; plantain bananas cooked in coconut milk; and deserts. By the time we get there, a couple of pigs are already in the “um,” baking over coals under blankets of palm leaves. I’m told there’ll be dog, too, which I am eager to try, knowingly this time.

When the food is ready, it will be brought to a covered structure they call the “naz,” the central meeting place where I went to ask Lynn’s mom for “permission.” After the food is blessed everyone will be invited to dig in. I’m usually invited, or pushed by Lynn, to go first, but I’ve never been comfortable being the first in line.

About the time the food is all ready, by the latter part of the afternoon, the men have begun pounding sakau for later. I’m very tired, and it is apparent to everyone, but I am trying to keep up appearances. I’ve been thinking about the immediate future; and I’ve been thinking about the immediate past. I’m trying to be hopeful, but I can’t see into the future the way I used to be able to. And I’m trying not to beat myself up about the past, but it’s hard not to want to put my regrets about own unfulfilled promises, and what “could have been,” and “should have been” into some sort of perspective. Lynn and my mom, from different points of view, are both telling me to stop thinking about the past, or about the future either, but just to do what’s in front of me right now.

The food is good. My appetite is returning, perhaps in anticipation of travelling soon and the days ahead. Dog isn’t bad at all. Tastes like the turkey.

I’d like to come back some day. I think I would. Maybe do it right next time. Maybe do what I came here to do in the first place. Be of service.


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