Saturday, December 27, 2003 ~ Pohnpei, Chuuk, Guam

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Beginning with my June 2008 post "It's Been Five Years," the following is the continuing story of my travels from the United States into Micronesia ~ Pohnpei, Guam and Saipan ~ and my life since June 2003.

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Saturday, December 27, 2003 ~ Pohnpei, Chuuk, Guam

Lynn and her girls, Brined and Renay, and I went flew from Pohnpei to Chuuk, and from Chuuk to Guam. Everyone had to get off in Chuuk, but women and their children were allowed to stay on the plane. The girls were already seasoned travelers by the time I had met them and were no trouble at all. But the flight from Pohnpei to Chuuk, and Chuuk to Guam was already seeming long and drawn out to me. Having said my goodbyes in Pohnpei, I just wanted to get wherever I was going to.

Flying into Guam was impressive and reinvigorating after living in Pohnpei only six months. It looked positively metropolitan from the air. We were met at the airport by Lynn’s half-sister, Lynette, who had been adopted as a baby by Lynn’s mom’s older brother and his wife. Lynn and Lynette chattered away, catching up with one another, while I took in the sights and tried to get my bearings.

I was tired when we arrived, but also energized by the sense of being back in a western world that was familiar to me, with more than one brand of gas station, fast food chain franchises I recognized like McDonalds, Pizza Hut and Taco Bell, four lanes of traffic, even the traffic lights themselves gave me a sense of comfort. There is an energy here that is absent in Pohnpei, of people who know what they’re doing and where they’re going, and why.

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Thursday, December 25, 2003 (continued) ~ Pohnpei

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Beginning with my June 2008 post "It's Been Five Years," the following is the continuing story of my travels from the United States into Micronesia ~ Pohnpei, Guam and Saipan ~ and my life since June 2003.

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Thursday, December 25, 2003 (continued) ~ Pohnpei

Christmas in Pohnpei. Not like what you’d expect in the States. The Christmas decorations have been up in some places all year round; just never taken down, I suppose. No expectations on the part of children of waking up to a visit from Santa Claus. I ask Lynn when the kids will get their presents, and she just says “Later. After.”

By mid-morning we head down to her village in Sokehs, where preparations are underway under the supervision of various aunties, pretty much the same as any other celebration I’ve witnessed: people bringing caseloads of chicken and pork ribs for the barbecue; numerous packages of hot dogs; large quantities of rice people made at home and bring to the village; breadfruit; taro; plantain bananas cooked in coconut milk; and deserts. By the time we get there, a couple of pigs are already in the “um,” baking over coals under blankets of palm leaves. I’m told there’ll be dog, too, which I am eager to try, knowingly this time.

When the food is ready, it will be brought to a covered structure they call the “naz,” the central meeting place where I went to ask Lynn’s mom for “permission.” After the food is blessed everyone will be invited to dig in. I’m usually invited, or pushed by Lynn, to go first, but I’ve never been comfortable being the first in line.

About the time the food is all ready, by the latter part of the afternoon, the men have begun pounding sakau for later. I’m very tired, and it is apparent to everyone, but I am trying to keep up appearances. I’ve been thinking about the immediate future; and I’ve been thinking about the immediate past. I’m trying to be hopeful, but I can’t see into the future the way I used to be able to. And I’m trying not to beat myself up about the past, but it’s hard not to want to put my regrets about own unfulfilled promises, and what “could have been,” and “should have been” into some sort of perspective. Lynn and my mom, from different points of view, are both telling me to stop thinking about the past, or about the future either, but just to do what’s in front of me right now.

The food is good. My appetite is returning, perhaps in anticipation of travelling soon and the days ahead. Dog isn’t bad at all. Tastes like the turkey.

I’d like to come back some day. I think I would. Maybe do it right next time. Maybe do what I came here to do in the first place. Be of service.

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Sunday, December 07, 2003 ~ Pohnpei

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Beginning with my June 2008 post "It's Been Five Years," the following is the continuing story of my travels from the United States into Micronesia ~ Pohnpei, Guam and Saipan ~ and my life since June 2003.

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Sunday, December 07, 2003 ~ Pohnpei

Ridiculous experience the other night: Some teen-ager was calling down from the street, "Fucking White Boy," and saying stuff about me being a black belt. Concerned for Lynn's safety, I went outside with my boken (wooden sword). He wanted to fight. I was feeling game. He left and showed back up with a machete'. Lynn pulled me inside and we called the cops. They showed up fast and asked if I wanted to file a complaint, but I said "no" because he was the nephew of a neighbor we'd already offended with loud noise late at night (I was asleep at that time). Turns out he was jealous that he wasn't invited to these "parties" Lynn was having while I slept; and was also concerned that I was hurting a relative of his while showing him some Kuk Sool. (Hey, Kuk Sool hurts, and when it comes to fighting, unless they've had training, they're whimps, and cry out at the slightest pain. They want to learn, but maybe I'm not the best teacher of this here.) He was drunk. I'm told it won't happen again and that he's sorry, although he'll never show up to apologize. I'm in the Pacific, which translates to "peaceful." Hmmmmm..... Not always so peaceful.

Strange dreams.

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Wednesday, November 26, 2003 ~ Pohnpei

Wednesday, November 26, 2003 ~ Pohnpei

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Beginning with my June 2008 post "It's Been Five Years," the following is the continuing story of my travels from the United States into Micronesia ~ Pohnpei, Guam and Saipan ~ and my life since June 2003.

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Wednesday, November 26, 2003 ~ Pohnpei

It’s incredible. How these people live, Lynn’s family and her village, anyway. They sleep on the floor, they fish, they farm, they pick fruit off the trees, they grow taro, rice is cheap, and they have family land they are born and buried on, handed down from generation to generation. They have no visible source of income. Basically, all they have to buy is rice, betel nut, cigarettes, beer and sakau. They rent video tapes (very cheap, a lot of it bootleg). The older women in the family dominate the younger women and the men. Lynn orders her younger brothers and sister around, and they think nothing of it. Living in a matriarchal society is at odds with my egalitarian sensibilities.

I thought I could do some good out here, but this place will never change. They have been too dependent too long. They have been dominated by the Japanese, the Germans, the Spanish and dependent upon the United States too long. The legacy of four hundred years of colonialism is dependency. They can never become a truly sovereign and independent nation.

My parents and my sister are relieved to hear I am coming home.

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Saturday, November 1, 2003 ~ Pohnpei

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Beginning with my June 2008 post "It's Been Five Years," the following is the continuing story of my travels from the United States into Micronesia ~ Pohnpei, Guam and Saipan ~ and my life since June 2003.

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Saturday, November 1, 2003 ~ Pohnpei

It's been another two weeks since I've put pen to paper, or finger to keyboard. Nothing new to report, so I haven't had anything to write about.

My leg is doing much better. Healing fast.

I was planning on going to Chuuk next week, but I was out of the office all week, sick ~ tired, no strength, no appetite. I don't know if it's residual infection, or some tropics flu, or the craziness of the place. Will probably go to Chuuk the week after.

Feeling better today. Will try and write more.

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Wednesday, October 15, 2003 ~ Pohnpei

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Beginning with my June 2008 post "It's Been Five Years," the following is the continuing story of my travels from the United States into Micronesia ~ Pohnpei, Guam and Saipan ~ and my life since June 2003.

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Wednesday, October 15, 2003 ~ Pohnpei

My mother writes to remind me that you can't fool around with cuts in a tropical clime. I know about cuts, and the need to vigorously clean out any possibility of infection from living on Kwaj in the Marshall Islands, which is a coral atoll. There, of course, the problem was coral infection. Here, it's a matter of tropical bacteria. Anyway, I am improving daily.

My mother asks with a name like Isaac if the doctor is Jewish. Somehow I doubt it. Lynn thinks he's half Filipino, half Pohnpein. I don't know what his credentials are, but the mehn why here swear by him, and I was impressed enough with how they treated me. Certainly so, after having seen the inside of their public hospital when we went to visit Lynn's uncle's wife. Medical care is free here, but there aren't enough qualified doctors and nurses, and they never have medicine at the public hospital.

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Tuesday, October 14, 2003 ~ Pohnpei

Tuesday, October 14, 2003 ~ Pohnpei

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Beginning with my June 2008 post "It's Been Five Years," the following is the continuing story of my travels from the United States into Micronesia ~ Pohnpei, Guam and Saipan ~ and my life since June 2003.

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Tuesday, October 14, 2003 ~ Pohnpei

So, I went to the doctor yesterday. Recommended as the best on island. Private, not the public hospital. He's good. Bryan Isaac. Not sure of his nationality.

I described my symptoms from Thurs. night/Fri. a.m. through Monday to him. The flu-like symptoms seem to be dissipating recently, but the pain and aggravation in the leg was getting worse. If I was prone and got up, I couldn't walk until I stood on the leg for a minute, then I was fine. I was beginning to see inflamation, and possibly red spikes moving upward. Worried about blood poisoning. Started treating myself on oral and topical anti-biotics last night that I brought from the States, and already seemed better today.

Anyway, he said the flu-like symptoms were a direct result of a bacterial and perhaps streptoccal infection from the leg injury which I got when I dropped the washer or dryer on my leg on Thursday helping move it into the storage area for it. Strange to me, as there was no bleeding. I asked if I would react that fast ~ the same night ~ and that it would last that long ~ four/five days? He said yes, no question.

Hey took a blood sample, gave me a shot in the hip of something strong antibacterial to get me started, and gave me a 10-day prescription of something less strong than what I brought from the states. He said I should save that for real emergencies.

He told me to keep my leg elevated and heated. The pain is from the bruising blood pooling and when I move it has to find new places to go, and is in the way of where the joints and ligaments need to go. I suspected that, as I've seen that from martial arts injuries I've had. It's actually easier to be able to walk if I keep my leg from knee down vertical, so I may disregard that part, at least during that day. Heating it makes sense, and I'd thought of that, as it circulates the blood and moves the blood around and will help dissipate the pooled bruised blood.

Total cost for the visit, thanks to local insurance I subscribed to: $6.10.

Saturday night Lynn made me some home-made chicken soup, with onions, and cabbage, and (too much) garlic, salt and pepper. Quite good, though I could only eat a few drops. Nothing like chicken soup, the universal remedy for what ails you. (Funny, Lynn doesn't look Jewish.) Probably helped get started me on the mend.

Anyway, I'm on the mend. I don't think I mind being messed up as long as I know what it is. Then you know what to do to fix it. 'Glad I've found the doctor and am now informed. I feel much better already just knowing.

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Saturday, October 11, 2003 ~ Pohnpei

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Beginning with my June 2008 post "It's Been Five Years," the following is the continuing story of my travels from the United States into Micronesia ~ Pohnpei, Guam and Saipan ~ and my life since June 2003.

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Saturday, October 11, 2003 ~ Pohnpei

Whatever I had, I don't think it was food poisoning. Blood poisoning, from my own blood, maybe. I bruised my shin very badly moving the washer and dryer on Thurs. (I keep hitting the same spot on my shin, but this was a whopper.) I'm beginning to see blood bruising below the injury and above the ankle, circling that whole part of the leg. That's what I suspect it is. And just when I think I'll be OK, I wake up sweating. But if I cover myself, I get better. And there are some weird flu bugs around here. I've definitely not felt like this in a long, long time, if ever.

My sister asks if they have real doctors here. Yes, they have real doctors here. A public hospital I wouldn't go to, but there is a private doctor all the mehn why swear by here.

Lynn was totally great taking care of me. And she was very scared, especially Thursday night/Friday morning, when it started. Very worried, tried to get me to the hospital, but I didn't want to go to the public hospital, and didn't know who the private doctor was to go to, and thought it would pass by the next day.

I was reading the Montgomery Advertiser online an hour ago. The lead story was about the robbery murder of a 75 yr. old retired University of Alabama in Huntsville art professor. UAH is my undergraduate alma mater. I knew him. Not from UAH. He was a member of the board of directors of the ACLU, so I knew him from board meetings and ACLU functions. Sweet guy. I feel so sorry for the ACLU people I know who knew him. It must be hell for them. Two suspects have been arrested.

In other Alabama news I read the names of people I know (and have advised or represented) being considered for layoffs because the state's budget is so bad, because they refuse to raise property taxes (practically non-existent to begin with due to timber and corporate interests). That state is a real mess. And the most important thing on its mind doesn't appear to be making sure children are fed and properly educated, but ramming the ten commandments down their throats. And people wonder why I wanted to leave.

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